Tag Archives: Taiwan

WOW! Lanyu 蘭嶼 Orchid Island, Taiwan

Taiwan’s outlying islands are all special, but the crown jewel of them all must surely be Lanyu!  A tiny green dot in the middle of a vast blue ocean, and on a sunny day (or 3) wow, the island glimmers and shines like a little jewel.  Blue sky, blue sea, green mountains, sandy beaches and rugged black volcanic rocks ~ and traditional boats painted in the white, red and black designs of the local Yami / Tao people who use them for catching flying fish, which they then hang up to dry all over everywhere.   A really amazing place!

Lanyu is one of those places that when you first see it, the only word to say is, ‘WOW!‘ Big green mountains completely dominate the view ~ there are 8 mountains over 400 m (1,300 ft) and the highest is 552 m (1,800 ft).  This is the first close-up view we had of the island as we approached it last Wednesday on the boat from Houbihu 後壁湖, near Kenting, on Taiwan’s southern tip.

IMG_9556

The boat trip itself makes you feel you’re setting off on an adventure.   Two boats make the trip together, taking 2½ hours for the approx 60 km / 40 miles trip going directly eastward from Kenting, through waters that are often rough and choppy.  Last Wednesday at 7:30 am, the sun was shining, the sea looked calm, and everyone munched away on their breakfasts as we were leaving port.  An hour later – and most were regretting it!  We stayed outside the whole journey and watched the flying fish ~ and survived in one piece to tell the tale….

When the boats arrive at the Lanyu Port at 10:00 am, it’s like Piccadilly Circus out there. Our boat had 300 people, I guess the other one had about the same, and we all arrived at the same time, with the boats leaving back for Taiwan only minutes later with another huge group of passengers.  Minibuses from all the different guest houses are there to pick up their visitors, boxes of deliveries are also being unloaded and loaded, and, well, it’s all a scene of huge chaotic fun!

IMG_0649

With a total area of only 45 km² (28 sq miles), a round-the-island highway that spans a distance of 37 km (23 miles), and so many steep high mountains, it’s not surprising that everyone in Lanyu lives somewhere along the coast. There are 6 villages, and they share the amenities between them, meaning no one village can claim to be the most important.  The 4 elementary schools are evenly distributed, but the high school, hospital, port, two 7-Eleven convenience stores, airport, post office, the single solitary ATM machine and government offices are not grouped in one village, rather spread out all over.

IMG_0927

Officially Lanyu has a population of about 5,000 people, including about 1,500 from Taiwan, the rest are local Yami / Tao people.  (The old name is Yami, the more recent name is Tao, and different people in Lanyu had different opinions about which name they preferred).  What is interesting is that they are not related to Taiwan’s other indigenous people, but instead to the peoples of the Batan Archipelago in the far north of the Philippines – their 2 languages and cultures have much in common.

The people of Lanyu have very strong cultural traditions and customs.  Visitors and tourists are welcomed, but local people make it clear that Lanyu is different from Taiwan, and they do not welcome people taking photos of them, or visitors going too near their homes or adversely affecting their way of life in any way.  Their many churches and prayer stations around the island are mostly locked.  The barbed wire and fences are to keep the goats out, but the people say they have had many experiences of visitors taking their drinks and snacks into the churches and leaving all their rubbish there.  So they keep the visitors out too.  Apart from the caves, we only found one prayer station that was open, in the far south of the island.

IMG_0294

In Taiwan you can buy meals on the street all day long until late into the night, but in Lanyu, it seems the whole island closes down early afternoon while everyone has a nap.  Every home seems to have a kind of wooden covered platform outside where the people rest during the heat of the day.  And then at about 7:00 pm, many of the stalls and restaurants also close down for the night.  Taiwan people will say that the most important thing about daily life is always ‘Convenience’ with a capital ‘C’, but not so in Lanyu.  Life moves along slowly at its own pace, and not even the attractions of making money out of all these visitors is going to persuade the local people to change their way of life.

And that is of course exactly what we loved about it!  Knowing all this, we found the people were very friendly and happy to talk – but then we also adhered to their customs.

IMG_0603

One such custom is that the traditional fishing boats are regarded as almost sacred – and not to be touched, and permission should be sought even to take photos.  And no swimming in the areas where the boats go fishing during the flying fish season.

So what were we doing in Lanyu?  Well, last week was Taiwan’s spring break of 3 days – a day for Children’s Day, a day for Tomb-Sweeping Festival and an extra day on Friday to make it a long weekend, and which everyone else had worked the previous Saturday to make up for.  Our university also had the Tuesday off to give the students a chance to get home before the rush of people on the Tuesday night.

A week before Chinese New Year, knowing we had a 5-day spring break in April, I had asked Miao-Shia, my good friend at St. James’ Church, Taichung if she’d be interested in a trip to Lanyu, seeing as I’ve been in Taiwan all these long years and never been there. She’d never been either, and before we knew it we had a group of 6 of us (Miao-Shia, Shu-Miao, Chung-Pung, Ah-Guan, I-Chen and me), all first-timers, all friends, and what’s more, our wonderful Miao-Shia agreed to organize everything!

And so it was that we set off on Tuesday, arriving at the Houbihu Port late that night, where we stayed in a nearby guest house ~ all ready for the boat to Lanyu next morning.

We had booked a small guest house in Lanyu, with mixed dormitory-style rooms (each bed curtained off for privacy) in the village of Yayo / Jiayo / Yeyou 椰油 which is nearest to the port.  We had also booked 3 motorcycles for the first 24 hours – turned out that there were so many people on Lanyu at the same time as us that all motorcycles and bicycles were fully booked after that.  But it didn’t matter.  We saw everything we needed to see, and more.  I spent the time taking photos from the back seat with I-Chen driving – the roads are not easy to drive, some parts are unpaved, some covered in sand and some of the hills are very steep, especially coming down!   This was Miao-Shia and Ah-Guan behind me…

IMG_9656

Our 3 motorcycle drivers did a great job, and we spent a happy day riding around, trying not to get sunburnt, avoiding the goats and pigs, and always stopping for every photo op – ha ha!  Everyone else was doing the same.  There’s plenty of room on those Lanyu roads!  Lanyu is full of visitors on motorcycles and most of them are from Taiwan.  Some western foreigners also visit, but most are Taiwan-based.  Ah, it’s a great place!

Lanyu has an interesting history.  During Taiwan’s Japanese era, 1895-1945, Lanyu was completely closed to all visitors, and designated as an ethnological research area, so even now, the tribal customs and culture are considered to be the best preserved of all Taiwan’s indigenous people.  Old photos from that time can be seen here.  Then in 1947, the Chinese started to arrive and the KMT government used Lanyu as a garrison and military prison, also a collective farm for old soldiers.   They deforested many areas, cleared others, built Taoist shrines, and from the start were in conflict with the local people.  In the late 1970’s the soldiers left, and their shrines were destroyed by the Lanyu people.  We passed the ruins of the garrison on the northern coast of Lanyu.

What did we notice in Lanyu?  Well, for a start, despite it’s English name of Orchid Island, there aren’t any actual orchids to be seen.  Long ago picked almost to extinction. And what else?  Well, a massive absence of temples of any kind.  Taiwan is full of temples, Buddhist and Taoist, but we did not see any in Lanyu.  We saw a few shrines in shops of business people who have come over from Taiwan ~ but actual temples?  No.  And we didn’t see any graveyards either.  Local people said the graveyards are in the forest, and secret.  There is a special owl endemic to Lanyu, the ‘Do Do Wu’ Horned Owl which we went to see.  Traditionally seen as the embodiment of evil spirits by local people, and associated with graveyards and death.  Not easy to take a photo, but their eyes glitter in the dark!

What did we see lots of? Well, stars at night, for one.  From the east coast, the night sky view is spectacular.  And what else?  Well, crosses – in every home we passed.  And churches in every village.  In fact, churches everywhere of every denomination.  We saw RC, Presbyterian, Assemblies of God, Baptist, True Jesus Church, and more – and often all next to each other.  Lanyu declares itself to be a Christian island.  On arrival at the port, the welcome notice is a mosaic, saying in Chinese 歡迎蒞臨蘭嶼 基督之島 “Welcome to Lanyu, Christ’s Island.”

IMG_0889

We were staying right next to the Yayo Presbyterian Church – isn’t it beautiful?!

IMG_0478

One morning we also climbed up to the Prayer Station on the hill above Yayo ~ and came down in high spirits, hence the smiles!

This was the view of Yayo Village from up above…

IMG_0733

Other village scenes of Yayo…

We visited the Lanyu High School in Yayo to watch a bit of the island’s softball (similar to rounders) championship, a 2-day event with teams from all the villages.

And we went to the local elementary school, beautifully decorated in Yami / Tao symbols and designs….

The school is open to the public outside of school hours, and is a famous place to see the sunset over Mantou Rock – yes, it really does look like a Taiwan mantou (traditional steamed bun)..

IMG_0558

And we also went to the old lighthouse at the small port, with stunning views all round, and watched the swimmers and divers in the waters below.

The small harbour is full of colourful boats….

IMG_9564

And we ate in most of the local restaurants.  One was called ‘En-Bao’, which happens to be the name of the cell-group that Miao-Shia and my friends belong to at St. James – hence this photo!  The restaurant produced some really delicious ‘flying fish baked rice’.

IMG_0571

And on other days and nights we ate elsewhere, trying out the local flying fish delicacies.

IMG_0047

There’s pork available too.  Pigs roam around everywhere, they are so full of character….

And though there’s lots of goats all over Lanyu, we never saw any restaurant offer goat as a dish ~ apparently they are kept for extra-special festival days.

And fruit?  Apart from a few banana trees, the only other fruit we saw being grown was a local fruit that doesn’t have an English name, in Chinese it is lintou 林投果 (Pandanus tectorius), a member of the pineapple family – native to Lanyu and not found in Taiwan.  Members of the same species are found in the Philippines.  We drank it as juice and as a smoothie. I liked it.

The basic root crop is taro, grown in shallow water in fields along the roadsides, also sweet potato and green vegetables.

IMG_0490

And betel nut trees…

IMG_0494

And so to our round-the-island tour, which we did over the Wednesday late morning and afternoon, and then Thursday morning.  We basically drove round the island clockwise, starting with the hilly road up to the Lanyu Lighthouse high up on the northern tip of the island…

This is the view from the northern end of Lanyu looking back down the west coast….  Scenic is the word!

IMG_9681

Then round the NW coast, through the rocks.

And onwards to Five-Hole Cave… we also went to these caves one night to see the rock formations and patterns on the rocks.

Our first village to stop at was  Iraraley / Jiraralay / Langdao (朗島), famous for its semi-underground houses.  The northern and eastern coasts of Lanyu are very susceptible to terrible typhoons in summer, and building these low houses means they can escape the worst.  But it was 1:00 pm – and everyone was resting!

Then on round down to the east coast and to the village of Iranmeylek / Jiranmilek / Dongqing (東清) which is at the middle of a huge and beautiful bay.  Definitely a sunrise spot.  We determined to return early the next morning.  Dongqing has a 7-Eleven – and coffee is what we needed after a short night’s sleep, a morning on the boat, and then straight onto the roads on the back of a motorbike in the hot sun.  Ah yes, coffee and air-conditioning. And lots of flying fish being dried in the sun.

We carried on to the other east coast village of  Ivalino / Jivalino / Yeyin (野銀) but once there we took the mountain road to ride up to the weather station.  This is a very steep road and we walked the last part. The views from the weather station are glorious, seems the whole of southern Lanyu lay below us.  There’s also the original weather station building, built by the Japanese in 1940 but bombed during World War II.

What a spectacular view from the top, looking south…

IMG_9965

We just had time to get down back to the west coast for the sunset with the goats – and over the sea…

IMG_0037

Next day, Thursday, we left from our guest house on our motorbikes at 4:30 am.  Yes, 4:30 am!  How did we do it?!  But we were heading for 7-Eleven coffee and the sunrise viewing spot at Dongqing.  We saw the dawn, had our coffee and waited for sunrise…

IMG_0051

IMG_0130

And then we continued on our tour of the island, heading south on the east coast.

And first to that far distant village of  Ivalino / Jivalino / Yeyin (野銀) to see their old subterranean houses, similar to the ones at Langdao.  We were not allowed too near them as the people live there, but we saw enough from the road…. really amazing.

We went on southwards, past zillions of goats….

And eventually, on Lanyu’s southernmost point, the most remote part of Lanyu, far from any habitation, and right opposite Xiao Lanyu 小蘭嶼 Lesser Orchid Island (a smaller, uninhabited volcanic islet, which is also the southernmost point of Taitung County so primarily used for military purposes, and is the place to find the famous endangered orchids) we came to the place that is sadly what Lanyu is most well-known for:

“The Lanyu nuclear waste storage facility 蘭嶼貯存場 was built in 1982 without prior consultation with the island’s Tao natives.  The plant receives nuclear waste from Taiwan’s three nuclear power plants operated by state utility Taiwan Power Company (Taipower). About 100,000 barrels of nuclear waste from the nation’s three operational nuclear power plants have been stored at the Lanyu complex”.  Apparently the nuclear waste stopped arriving in 1996, though that is not clear from this Wikipedia quote.  Anyway, the site is open to the public and we watched a video and looked at the nuclear waste storage site.  All those green concrete bunkers are where it’s at.

IMG_0353

Local opposition is strong and ongoing, and Taiwan’s president, Tsai Ing-Wen has promised to remove the nuclear waste, but it’s not obvious how this situation is going to be resolved.  Nobody wants nuclear waste stored in their back yard anyway anyhow anytime anywhere.  Of course, the way it was built under the guise of being a fish cannery was clearly deceitful, and the original plan to eventually put it all in a nearby deep sea trench was also illegal under international law.  But what to do with it all now is a major headache for the current government, and will continue to be so for a long time to come.

The site employs about 50 people, 12 of whom are from Taipower in Taiwan, the rest are local people, some whose job is purely public relations.  Thus it was that we each got a free set of postcards, including scenes of, well, the nuclear waste site.   Not surprisingly, I can’t possibly think who to send them to.

Anyway outside there are some steps made of plastic bottles and cans and other recycled materials.  As the notice there says, Lanyu is drowning in waste – from tourists, from locals and from nuclear waste.

The Dragon’s Head Rock is right there too…

IMG_0418

We continued on towards the west coast and the famous grasslands ~ completely different in vegetation from the rest of the island….

And so through the remaining villages of  Imourod / Jimowrod / Hongtou (紅頭), seat of the local government HQ, and Iratay / Jiratay / Yuren (漁人).  In Imourod there is also the only hospital, ATM and post office.  Near Iratay is the Lanyu Airport.  Flights are supposed to go every day to and from Taiwan but the planes are small, only for 19 passengers, and notoriously unreliable due to the changeable weather conditions – in windy weather, delays and cancellations really put people off going in the first place.  Impossible to book tickets too – well, for 6 of us anyway, and we did not succeed.  So the only alternative is the boat, from Houbihu or Taitung, more reliably on time – but oh so choppy, oh so potentially awful!

IMG_0465

Never a truer word spoken in jest ~ as we were to find out on our return trip home.  A cold front had arrived in Taiwan on Thursday and Friday, and although Lanyu was fine for those 2 days, the front was pushing south and arrived in Lanyu on Friday night.  So this was the scene as the dark clouds came rolling in on Friday evening….

For Saturday, the wind was forecast to be ‘strong’ at 53 km/ hr.  Many local people thought the boats might be cancelled.  The good thing was that everyone was so worried about the wind and waves that as we lined up waiting for the boats to arrive, nobody dared eat anything.  I didn’t either.  And it paid off.  The trip was very rough.  Choppy is not the word.  Everywhere I looked was water.  We were going up and down so much it was impossible to stand up, let alone walk anywhere in the cabin.  So we all sat, eyes closed for the whole time, gripping the arms of our seats.  The wind and waves were so big and so strong that every time we lurched in one direction, we had to grip harder to stay put.  Luggage slid backwards and forwards.  The baseball game and then TV News played on and on.  We were all silent.  Worried.  But y’know, mostly not sick.  Even the guy next to me who I had seen very ill on the way over, was so happy to be smiling as we arrived back at Houbihu all in one piece.  Surprisingly, far fewer were sick on this trip than on the outward journey a few days before, when the sun was shining!

And what did we buy in Lanyu to bring home?  Well, this was the local delicacy to take home – flying fish as cookies and flying fish as egg rolls. Also traditional handicrafts and carved boats.  I liked the flying fish cookies myself – actually quite delicious!

So to the big question.  Would I go to Lanyu again?  YES!  And a very big YES at that!  People say you should never see all of a place on your first visit so that you’ve got somewhere to visit the next time.  And I can safely say that next time we have plenty of places still to visit.  I can’t wait.  Lanyu was so beautiful, so stunning, so special, we’re already dreaming of our next trip!

IMG_0564

Thanks to Miao-Shia and all the gang for making it such a fun trip, to all my friends near and far for their support and encouragement, and of course thanks be to God that everything went so smoothly.  Truly an adventure to remember, to treasure forevermore!

Cambodia: The Killing Fields & Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

First a word of warning, this is not for the faint-hearted or those likely to have nightmares for days after.   If that is you, don’t read any further.  But if you can, do.  This is an important part of Cambodia’s tragic history, the legacy of which continues to affect the whole country, the region, even the world.  We need to know.  To learn.  To try to understand.  And to reflect and pray.

The Cambodian genocide took place in my lifetime, when I was a teenager.  Most of the young men who joined Pol Pot and became part of the Khmer Rouge were teenagers then, just as I was.  The most brutal of the torture, violence, interrogation and killings were carried out by these young men, and many are still alive, with children and grandchildren of their own.  Some of them, and some of their commanders are, even now, part of the current Cambodia government, including the prime minister, Hun Sen.  Their victims were their own people, even members of their own villages, their own relatives.  Every person in the country was affected, the vast majority lost family members, some lost their entire families.

Those who survived the atrocities want justice.  Some want revenge.  Many need healing of the nightmare they went through.  Some would rather let sleeping dogs lie, and not have to relive the past all over again.  The Khmer Rouge Tribunal, tasked with putting the most senior responsible members of the Khmer Rouge on trial, is broadly supported by the general public, but not always by the government.  Many of those on trial are now old and in poor health.  Others, including Pol Pot himself, died before they could even be brought to trial.

It is a task unfinished, a tragedy unredeemed, a trauma unresolved, and now affecting the next generation, today’s young people.  Many of the social problems today in Cambodia can be traced back to the Cambodia genocide years.

Visiting Cambodia is unlike any country I have ever been to before.  Lonely Planet describes it thus: “Ascend to the realm of the gods, Angkor Wat. Descend into hell at Tuol Sleng Prison. With a history both inspiring and depressing, Cambodia delivers an intoxicating present.”  That seems more or less about right, at least from my point of view as a first-time, one-week-only, visitor.

I was in Cambodia from October 4-11, primarily to attend a CMS (Church Mission Society) Conference in Phnom Penh.  That finished last Sunday, October 8, and as Taiwan was having a 4-day weekend to celebrate the 106th anniversary of the Republic of China, so I had 2 more days to see something of Cambodia. Of course it wasn’t long enough.  But I managed to spend a day at Angkor Wat last Monday, and then still had Tuesday free in Phnom Penh to learn a little about the terrible Cambodia genocide.

“The Cambodian genocide was carried out by the Khmer Rouge (KR) regime led by Pol Pot between 1975 and 1979 in which an estimated 1.5 to 3 million people died. The Cambodian Civil War resulted in the establishment of Democratic Kampuchea by the Khmer Rouge, who had planned to create a form of agrarian socialism founded on the ideals of Stalinism and Maoism. The subsequent policies led to forced relocation of the population from urban centers, and to torture, mass executions, use of forced labor, malnutrition, and disease which led to the deaths of an estimated 25 percent of the total population (around 2 million people). The genocide ended in 1979 following the Vietnamese invasion of Cambodia. As of 2009, 23,745 mass graves have been discovered.”

Thus it was that I arrived in Phonm Penh on Tuesday morning on the overnight bus from Siem Reap, which deposited us on the riverside just in time to see the sunrise over the River Mekong that morning.  Next task – to find a tuk-tuk driver to take me out to the location of the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek – 17 km (11 miles) south of Phnom Penh.  It was the rush hour, even though we were supposedly going in the opposite direction from the traffic – out into the countryside….

Choeung Ek is the site of a former orchard and graveyard for the Chinese community, as well as a mass grave for victims of the Khmer Rouge. “It is the best-known of the sites known as The Killing Fields, where the Khmer Rouge regime executed over one million people between 1975 and 1979”.

IMG_7071

Today, Choeung Ek is a memorial, marked by a Buddhist stupa. Cambodia is a predominantly Buddhist country.  The stupa has acrylic glass sides and is filled with more than 5,000 human skulls.

IMG_7079

I arrived at Choeung Ek first thing in the morning, while it was still quite cool and there were hardly any other visitors.  There is an audio guide so visitors can walk around at their own pace and listen.  It was really quite a reflective experience.

IMG_7259

The horror of what I was listening to on the audio, and the awful sights that I was looking at in front of me, with notices of the mass graves and how many were buried there, was in such stark contrast to the beauty of the natural environment around me.  The sun was shining, there was blue sky, green grass, trees and flowers everywhere, the dark pink water lilies on the lake were looking stunning, birds were singing, roosters were running everywhere. And the workers were cutting the grass.  Their small children were playing nearby, one of them joined me in looking at one of the mass graves.  And yet, this was THE most famous of THE Killing Fields.  Over one million people are thought to have been killed here. In the most brutal ways possible.

IMG_7144

One of the audio stories is an account of one man’s experience at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, and how, having watched his family members being killed, he fled, and after years in the USA, he came back to Cambodia.  He came back initially seeking revenge, but ultimately realized that revenge is not what his mother would have wanted for him.  She would have wanted him only to be happy and to find peace.  So instead of revenge, he sought healing, in tribute to his mother and those in his family who had perished.

IMG_7164

The whole area is a fitting memorial to those who perished in that place.  Beautifully preserved, and yet presented in such a way that none of the tragedy and suffering is glossed over.   Dignified and horrible in equal measure.

After an hour or so at Choeung Ek, it was time to move on, back into Phnom Penh City, and visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  General advice is not to visit these 2 places in the same day.  And not to go alone.  I took the risk, and discovered that visiting both in the same day and alone was OK if I took photos of what I was seeing. Looking at everything through a camera lens kind of put things slightly at a distance and made the overall experience more bearable.  And visiting The Killing Fields first, although chronologically in the wrong order, was somewhat of a preparation for the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  And so back into town we went…

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is on the site of a former high school “which was used as the notorious Security Prison 21 (S-21) by the Khmer Rouge regime from its rise to power in 1975 to its fall in 1979.

IMG_7319

Tuol Sleng means “Hill of the Poisonous Trees” or “Strychnine Hill”.  It was just one of at least 150 execution centers established by the Khmer Rouge.  From 1975 to 1979, an estimated 17,000 people were imprisoned at Tuol Sleng (some estimates suggest a number as high as 20,000, although the real number is unknown). At any one time, the prison held between 1,000–1,500 prisoners. They were repeatedly tortured and coerced into naming family members and close associates, who were in turn arrested, tortured and killed. In the early months of S-21’s existence, most of the victims were from the previous Lon Nol regime and included soldiers, government officials, as well as academics, doctors, teachers, students, factory workers, monks, engineers, etc. Later, the party leadership’s paranoia turned on its own ranks and purges throughout the country saw thousands of party activists and their families brought to Tuol Sleng and murdered.”

IMG_7324

“The buildings at Tuol Sleng are preserved as they were left when the Khmer Rouge were driven out in 1979.

IMG_7399

The regime kept extensive records, including thousands of photographs. Several rooms of the museum are now lined, floor to ceiling, with black and white photographs of some of the estimated 17,000 prisoners who passed through the prison.

IMG_7366

The site has four main buildings, known as Building A, B, C, and D.

IMG_7375

Building A holds the large cells in which the bodies of the last victims were discovered.

IMG_7326

Building B holds galleries of photographs. Building C holds the rooms sub-divided into small cells for prisoners.

IMG_7387

IMG_7425

Building D holds other memorabilia including instruments of torture.  Other rooms contain only a rusting iron bed-frame, beneath a black and white photograph showing the room as it was found by the Vietnamese.

IMG_7337

In each photograph, the mutilated body of a prisoner is chained to the bed, killed by his fleeing captors only hours before the prison was captured. Other rooms preserve leg-irons and instruments of torture.”

IMG_7332

There is a lot to see at Tuol Sleng, and an audio guide that is hard to listen to, because it is all so terrible.  The Killing Fields are terrible enough, but Tuol Sleng is even worse.

IMG_7380

Tuol Sleng is the place where the torture and beatings and interrogations went on, day after day after day.  Despite the sunshine and blue sky, it is a truly awful place.

It’s the place from where the trucks left every evening taking people to The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek, from where they were never to be seen again.  There is nothing beautiful about this place at Tuol Sleng.  Except perhaps the frangipani trees flowering in the yard.  There’s also a central memorial, with the names of those who passed through Tuol Sleng engraved on large stone slabs.

IMG_7447

Out of an estimated 17,000 people imprisoned at Tuol Sleng, there were only seven known survivors.  Two of them, Chum Mey and Bou Meng are on hand each day at the museum, selling copies of their biographies and talking to visitors, sharing about their experiences.  They even take photos with the visitors.  Here we are, Chum Mey on the left, and Bou Meng on the right.

I bought both their books, and have since read them.  These are survivors’ accounts of their lives before, during and after the genocide.  Both say that they were kept alive because they had skills that their captors judged to be useful. Bou Meng, whose wife was killed in the prison, is an artist.  He lost his children in the genocide too.  Chum Mey was kept alive because of his skills in repairing machinery.  He also lost his wife and children in the genocide. Their stories, their courage and their resilience are amazing.

Chum Mey writes in his book, “When I walk among those photographs of the people at Tuol Sleng, I see portraits of people who wanted to live.  They all wanted to live.  Why were they killed?  According to Buddhist teachings, those killers will reap their karma. It hurts me to walk among those photos, but I do it in order to tell my story…. I do not condemn the people who tortured me.  If they were still alive today and if they came to me, would I still be angry with them?  No.  Because they were not senior leaders and they were doing what they had to do at the time.  I consider them victims like me, because they had to follow other people’s orders.  How can I say I would have behaved differently?  Would I have had the strength to refuse to kill, if the penalty was my own death?  During the interrogation I was angry, but after a long while, learning about that place, understanding that people had to do what they were told to do, I wasn’t angry with them anymore.  Even the ones who tortured me, they also lost parents and family members.  There’s a saying in Khmer language: ‘If a mad dog bites you, don’t bite back’.  If you do, it means you are mad, too.”

IMG_7539

The Khmer Rouge also tried to destroy the culture, the traditions, the history, the way of life of Cambodia.  As we drove round Phnom Penh over the past week, it was hard not to notice that there were no crosses anywhere, no churches of any kind in any place.  In a city with a French colonial history, I’d expected at least to see a massive Roman Catholic cathedral. But there wasn’t anything.  It turns out that the Phnom Penh RC Cathedral was the first building to be destroyed when the Khmer Rouge entered Phnom Penh on April 17, 1975.  The Khmer Rouge were against anything capitalistic, religious or evoking the colonial past, and to them, the cathedral epitomized all three. “The new regime was so steadfast in attempting to eliminate all forms of religion that it tore the cathedral down stone by stone”.  The town hall now stands on the site, and the only things that survive are 3 (well, 2½) of the cathedral bells that are now lying on the steps at the main entrance of the National Museum.  I went to see them.  You don’t even need to buy a ticket, they are there on the steps, but with no notice telling you what they might be.

Their engravings are special….

Virtually all the church buildings were destroyed by the Khmer Rouge.  But all is not lost.  There ARE churches.  Plenty of them.  Just not much in evidence.  Our Cambodian friends said that they worship in homes and apartments, and display their crosses inside the churches rather than outside.  The Roman Catholics do not have many actual church buildings, but they run a lot of schools and colleges, and worship in the school buildings.  And the Anglican Church, part of the Diocese of Singapore, is building a big new church.

There are many stories of how the Christian faith went underground during the Khmer Rouge years.  There are also reports of Khmer Rouge commanders becoming Christians, the most famous of which is Kaing Kek Iew, better known as Comrade Duch, chief of Tuol Sleng Prison.  But I suspect such reports are of no comfort to those he tortured and whose families he slaughtered.  In fact such news may well make it even worse for them to endure.  Or maybe it is just us who ask the question: how come the Khmer Rouge have a chance to receive God’s mercy and forgiveness in this lifetime, when those they murdered didn’t?

Going round The Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng brings out the same emotions and questions as I had recently when watching the movie, ‘Silence’ (about the persecution of Christians in 17th century Japan) – it is truly harrowing, compelling, gruesome, powerful, emotional – and the overriding question, which is of course in the movie’s title, about the silence of God.  When human beings go through such utter anguish and indescribable pain and suffering, why is God so silent?

God is of course there suffering with us in each and every terrible situation.  For the victims, we can only trust that God is merciful.  For the perpetrators, we can only believe that God is just.  Ultimately justice and mercy must belong to God, and in His time.

While at the CMS conference, I shared with everyone there a little about Taiwan’s own history and some of Taiwan’s own tragedies, notably the White Terror, and the Second Taiwan Strait Crisis in 1958, when Mainland China fired an estimated 450,000 artillery shells at the island of Kinmen, an island close to the Chinese mainland, but governed by Taiwan.  Many of those artillery shells are now used to make steel knives for cooking.  On a visit to Kinmen last year, our bishop, Bishop David J. H. Lai had a vision to take the waste metal fragments of artillery shells and transform them into Artillery Shell Crosses.  Now we are ready to start production of the crosses, as below….

IMG_7480

The crosses have black lines running up and down, and across ~ these signify the rifling inside the gun barrels, through which the artillery shells were fired.  The oblique angles at the ends of the crossbar represent human arms uplifted in prayer toward God, and the ‘P’ in the centre stands for ‘Peace’. Objects of evil, hatred, death and destruction are being transformed into a symbol of love, peace, hope and redemption.

IMG_7484

In Cambodia, I visited a shop run by an NGO, Rajana Association, who have a slightly-different-but-similar vision, transforming bombshells from the Cambodian genocide into beautiful jewelry for sale.

I bought some of their ‘bombshell jewelry’: a butterfly necklace (below left photo), which for me is a symbol of transformation.  I ordered a cross for Bishop Lai (below right photo).  I like the words they have printed below the cross, ‘At Rajana, bombshells are transformed into something new and beautiful. The transformation of an object of violence into a piece of art.’

Back in February, we welcomed Presiding Bishop Michael Curry from the Episcopal Church in New York to visit Taiwan (see my blog post here), and on February 26, the Sunday of the Transfiguration, he preached in St. John’s Cathedral, Taipei. He is always a very dynamic, powerful and challenging preacher.  I quote from his sermon that day, because his words came to me in the past few days as I have reflected on my visit to The Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Museum….

“God came among us in the person of Jesus of Nazareth to show us the way to change the world ~ to show us the way to transform and transfigure this world, from the nightmare we often make of it, into the dream that God has intended for it ~ from the mess humans make of it, into the miracle that God will make of it. He came to change the world – and he came to show us how to do it….”

“Go out and change the world, change Taipei, change Taiwan, change this world, change this church ~ help God change this world from the nightmare it is into the dream that God intends!  May God bless you, may God keep you and may God send you on his way to change this world!”

Amen. Amen. May it be so.  And God forbid that the tragedy that is the Cambodia genocide should ever be repeated.  In Cambodia.  In Asia.  Or anywhere in the world.

Pray for the people of Cambodia and the healing of their nation.

(Some of the above reflections are the result of sharing with my CMS colleagues about our experiences of visiting the Tuol Sleng Museum.  I have incorporated them into what I have written above).

This is Part 3 of 3 posts about my visit to Cambodia, and needs to be read as part of the whole.  For Part 1 see here, and Part 2 see here.

Spring has Sprung @ Sanzhi 三芝!

Yes, the cherry blossom is finally out, the azaleas too, and the swallows are back and starting nest-building.  The local council has planted 17,000 cherry blossom trees around and about, and after a slow start, yes they’re out.  Even more importantly, the sun is out too, and that improves things considerably!

We’ve had a slow start to spring, apparently due to the fact that the cold weather took so long to arrive.  Still, it’s here now, and we’re enjoying every minute of the sunshine ~ so wishing you all a happy spring!

Happy Children’s Day 兒童節 in Laomei Village 石門鄉老梅!

Laomei Elementary School 老梅國小 is in Shimen Township on Taiwan’s northern tip, and on a sunny day in spring and summer it’s beautiful.  The rest of the time, sadly it is not. The rain lashes down in buckets, the wind blows in great big gusts, and the children are well-used to spending endless days indoors.   But surprise, surprise, after a very wet weekend, suddenly yesterday was beautiful, the sun was out and it was warm!

Laomei Beach is famous for its Algal Reef 老梅綠色石槽, formed from wave-cut volcanic lava and every year covered in bright green algae, especially in April – May, and best seen at low tide.

Yesterday morning was not low tide, but the algal reef was really starting to look very green! Great!

The village was also looking quite cheerful with the sun out.  Many of the residents are elderly, but the people are tough, and very committed to their village. It’s in the danger zone for the Jinshan Nuclear Power Plant, so there are notices all over. The centre of village life is the old people’s activity centre, located on the ground floor of the temple….

It so happened I was spending the morning at Laomei School…

The children were enjoying the weather….

In honour of Children’s Day, celebrated in Taiwan on April 4, we were learning a little about children around the world.  We used an excellent You Tube Video, Scenes From Schools Around the World and we learned the song, Hello to all the Children in the World – a great way to introduce the subject.  At the end we made some cut-out children with the greetings in different languages written on them, and got each class together for a group photo….

See how the declining birth rate is affecting Laomei School?  A few years ago, the top classes had 30+ children, now down to less than 20, and the younger classes have less than 10…. they are all so lovely, of course!

Happy Children’s Day to all the children of Laomei ~ and to all the children of the world!

‘Silence’ 沈默 opens in Taiwan – must go, must see!

Harrowing, compelling, gruesome, powerful, emotional, brilliant ~ all these and more…..

The movie ‘Silence’ 沈默 opened yesterday throughout Taiwan ~ definitely a Must-See ~ and all filmed in Taiwan, the scenery is superb – though recognizing familiar sites adds to the rawness and intensity of it all.

img_5954

And there’s plenty of inspiration and food for thought for everyone following the readings in preparation for this Sunday’s sermon on loving your enemies and praying for those who persecute you….. almost ironic that it should open this weekend in view of the sermon topic on Sunday.  That’s why I’m off to St. James’ Church, Taichung….

The kind of movie (like the book) that you never forget – but also that takes months or even years to process – and come to terms with the story and the tragic events behind it.

So.go.and.see!

Bringing in the New Year 2017 on Taiwan’s beautiful east coast @ 台東 Taitung!

Yes, Happy New Year 2017 from Taiwan’s beautiful east coast!

After my visit to the Sisters of Mercy of the Holy Cross in Shangwu, Dawu Township, Taitung County on Friday, I stayed on in Taitung and was joined by good friend, Ah-Guan from St. James’ Church, Taichung, and her daughter and dog for a weekend of seeing what’s what in Taitung.  Beautiful sunny hot weather, blue skies, blue sea, and lots of Taiwan Indigenous People singing and dancing!

Some highlights….

img_2272

The Beinan (Puyuma People) Great Hunting Festival is held in the Beinan Archaeological Park near Taitung City at the end of December every year, and thousands of Beinan people gather from all over Taiwan for the weekend – celebrating the Beinan young men’s safe and successful return from 3 days of hunting in the mountains. The elders sit in a circle, the young men stand around behind them, and they are decorated by the women in flower garlands, then there’s a big picnic, followed by singing and dancing. We kind of found ourselves in the midst of it all (invited by Ah-Guan’s friend and her family), and enjoyed every minute!

Guanshan 關山 is a small town on the railway line north of Taitung, famous for, well, in 2013, we climbed up to the very famous and beautiful Jiaming Lake from Guanshan (see that blog post here). But mainly famous for us because our good friend and colleague at St. James’ Kindergarten, Huei-Fen comes from there and I’ve visited her several times.  This time we also got the chance to visit her and her parents, and she took us up to the town’s viewpoint and the family’s field. Oh yes, and we visited the Guanshan Farmers’ Association with its bright coloured building – I love it!

Chihshang 池上 is the last town in northern Taitung County on the inland road before you pass into Hualien County, and very famous all over Taiwan for its rice.  Yes, rice is the thing that everyone comes to Chihshang to buy, by the sackful or bagful or cooked and served as part of the famous railway lunchboxes.  We had the lunchbox, and also the stinky tofu – just as famous! The rice fields fill the valley and there are plenty of great bicycle trails to cycle along and sights to see.  We happened to be at Dapo Pond for the early-morning New Year flag-raising ceremony with the mayor and all the officials, plus displays and performances from all the children.  We also visited the Sea of Flowers garden….

Bunun Leisure Farm 布農部落 in Yanping Township is an initiative set up by Bunun pastor, Rev. Pai Kwang Sheng and his wife to help the local Bunun People in education and to revive their traditional culture, and to share these resources with visitors, providing a reliable and sustainable source of income for the people.  We stayed overnight and met Rev. Pai and his wife, he posed for a photo. He is a good friend of Bishop Lai and some of our clergy!

We drove around Taitung for 2 whole days, with views like these…..

And then we drove back to Pingtung and up to Taichung.  The in-car entertainment was freely provided by the dog.  When Ah-Guan was driving, her daughter sat at the back and slept, while the dog sat happily next to her.  When her daughter was driving, Ah-Guan sat in the back and fought with the dog the whole way trying to stop him scrambling into the front seat.  When I sat in the back, it was the same.  And that was on a good day ha ha! When the road got rough and started winding up the mountains, the dog got car sick, and well, I’ll leave the rest to your imagination ha ha!

Anyway, we had such a great time!  Thanks to Ah-Guan, her daughter and the dog, and to Almighty God for a safe and smooth trip!  And thanks to St. James’ Church for a night’s stay on Monday – so I arrived back in Taipei early yesterday morning…. ah, it was such a fun weekend!

And on New Year’s Eve, we stayed in a place where the rooms really were decorated like this – red ceilings and green walls, ah, Christmas colours!

img_2452-001

So wishing you all a Happy and Very Colourful New Year 2017!